Chef April Bloomfield on Burgers, TV and Female Chefs

An Interview with The Spotted Pig Chef: Part Three of Three
burger and fries from the spotted pig in new york photo courtesy of eater

DICED has been sharing an interview from , our school newsletter, between Editor Kiri Tannenbaum and The Spotted Pig Chef April Bloomfield about her restaurant and her new book, "A Girl and Her Pig." Last week, we told you about April鈥檚 life in the kitchen and now we are sharing her thoughts on running a successful restaurant.

Even now that you have three restaurants, how are you able to be in the kitchen?

I try and be in the kitchen every day. Obviously, it鈥檚 hard because I鈥檝e started to do a few more interviews for my book. I can鈥檛 obviously be in different ones at the same time, but I try and touch on them all at least once a day.

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing chefs today?

Keeping on top of things, persevering and sourcing. Sourcing is really a challenge sometimes.

Do you have an in-house forager?

We used to, now my chefs have started to go to the market a little bit more.

What鈥檚 your number one priority in the kitchen?

I have many. To be professional all the time. To taste. That鈥檚 really important鈥搃t鈥檚 number one. To be clean, organized, efficient, and to communicate. All those are priorities. If you don鈥檛 have those, then it鈥檚 not a smooth machine. And treat the food well.

What is important for you when you are hiring your staff?

Firstly, that they know what we鈥檙e about. And to hire people that are like-minded. That鈥檚 why trails are so good, because you really get to see who they are and they get to see who you are as well. It鈥檚 less about the interview process; it鈥檚 more about the connection鈥 whether they fit into your kitchen, whether the other people work well with them.

When you look back to when you were a young cook in England, what were the most important lessons you learned?

To work hard and stand behind what you鈥檙e doing and have integrity. Not wavering in that. Having standards. Never settle for anything less. Always try to be better. To better the food. Rose and Ruth had a great knack for eating something in Italy and then bringing it back and trying to make it better. Which made them very unique and refreshing because there weren鈥檛 a lot of people in England, or London, who had standards of that caliber. It鈥檚 really refreshing that two women who didn鈥檛 really have professional cooking could open a restaurant with so much passion and just great taste.

You鈥檙e one of the top female chefs, what struggles do think women in the industry may experience different than men?

I鈥檇 like to think they wouldn鈥檛 have any or they would be the same. I had my head down and I did the stuff that I wanted to do. I didn鈥檛 have anybody standing in my way. If I wanted to work a section, somehow I managed to do it and get on that section. I didn鈥檛 feel any restrictions. I had goals. I started on the cold appetizers and was always thinking, 鈥淥kay, I鈥檓 going to do this,鈥 but I鈥檓 looking over there thinking, 鈥淚 want to do hots now.鈥 And then you鈥檇 be on hots and you鈥檇 master that and you鈥檇 work really hard and put in the hours and time and then you鈥檇 say, 鈥淥kay, I want to do saut茅 and grill.鈥 I think the only thing I didn鈥檛 do was pastry because I didn鈥檛 want to get stuck there, so I didn鈥檛 really pay attention to that until I was cooking for at least seven years.

What advice would you give a young cook just starting out their career?

Be prepared to work hard. Be a sponge. Absorb as much information as you can. Ask a lot of questions. I think a lot of chefs, especially young chefs that come in now, don鈥檛 ask questions. They never ask, 鈥淲hy are you doing that?鈥 or, 鈥淲hy did you use that?鈥 or, 鈥淲hy should it taste like this?鈥 Just touch the food, taste the food, smell the food, get to know it, cook it in different styles. Eat out if you can afford it even if it鈥檚 somewhere in your price range. Try and buy some books even if they鈥檙e secondhand.

The burger was what put The Spotted Pig on the map. How much thought went into that one menu item?

When I opened The Pig I didn鈥檛 want to open just a regular gastropub that had become the norm in England, and I didn鈥檛 want to have the gastropub classics like penne pasta with tomato sauce. I wanted to make restaurant quality food to a high standard and have it be consistently tasty. I put dishes on the menu that I really like to cook and eat, and secretly had my fingers crossed hoping that people would like it and appreciate it as much as I do. But when I was making the menu, I did think, 鈥淥kay, it is America and they do like burgers,鈥 so put the burger on with that in mind.

Do you think it鈥檚 important that a restaurant has a signature dish?

It鈥檚 nice to be able to go to a restaurant and have something because it鈥檚 your favorite and have it stay on as long as it鈥檚 seasonal. I did that burger because I could make it all year round. It鈥檚 nice to be able to get some choice but have some set things that you want to go back for and say, 鈥淚 want to go eat the gnudi or the burger.鈥

Did you toil over the burger to get it just right?

When we were opening, everybody helped with everything. We all had input on the menu and we exchanged techniques, so it was a nice collaboration. To get a great, tasty burger, it was trying to get the blend right. It was constant communication with the butcher, Pat La Frieda. We came to a recipe that we both agreed on.

He鈥檚 going to be on television.

I know, I can鈥檛 wait to see it. It鈥檚 called "Meat Men" and they are two perfect guys for that. Is television something you鈥檙e interested in? I like to learn. That鈥檚 the thing about me. I like to learn about different things. I鈥檝e done a little TV and it鈥檚 fun to do. I think if it helps keep my restaurants busy and successful, then I might contemplate doing something in the future, but nothing right now.