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Interview with Mark Bittman 鈥 Part III

DICED has been sharing our interview with influential food writer Mark Bittman from the Winter 2012 issue of , our school newsletter. Bittman is the lead food writer for the New York Times Magazine and an opinion columnist for the New York Times, for which he began writing in 1990. We鈥檝e already looked at his career and his outlook on the food system and our current diet.

Today, we are sharing his answers on how he brings his philosophy on food into the kitchen and into his work as a writer.

The first lines of your bio state 鈥淚鈥檓 not a chef, I鈥檝e never been.鈥 You are very adamant about that.

It鈥檚 a bit of a holdover. When I first started doing public stuff, they鈥檇 introduce me as Chef Mark Bittman and everybody was like, 鈥極ooooh, chefs, wow, how exciting.鈥 It was the days of Emeril and it wasn鈥檛 like now when there are 50 billion chefs out there. So they didn鈥檛 know how to deal with somebody like me.

I鈥檇 get signed up to teach cooking classes, or I鈥檇 get signed up to give talks or whatever, and they didn鈥檛 know what to do with me because very few people were doing it who weren鈥檛 chefs, so they called me Chef Mark Bittman. I鈥檇 get up there and I鈥檇 say, 鈥業鈥檓 not a chef,鈥 and then I would talk about why everybody should cook; that chefs do one thing, but home cooks do another, and that it鈥檚 really important to be a home cook, and that there should a 100 million home cooks in this country.

In the time that you鈥檝e been talking about cooking and telling people they need to learn how to cook, have you seen an increase in the number of home cooks?

There鈥檚 no way to track it. I think that certainly in the 鈥80s and 鈥90s it was going down, and I think that now, it鈥檚 going up. It鈥檚 hard to measure, but it鈥檚 also hard to believe that so many young people could be interested in farming and food co-ops and CSAs and all of that stuff and not be cooking. So anecdotally, it seems like it鈥檚 on the upswing.

Who is your audience?

I have four or five different audiences, so it鈥檚 very hard to say. Obviously, there鈥檚 a devoted New York Times following: people who鈥檝e read me for years and complain that I鈥檓 not in on Wednesdays anymore; people who are like, 鈥極h, it鈥檚 so great that you鈥檙e on Sundays鈥; people who are reading the opinion columns; and people who are saying, 鈥楢ch, you should stick to recipes.鈥 How to Cook Everything has sold over a million copies, so there鈥檚 an audience of fans who really love How to Cook Everything.

I think there鈥檚 an audience of fans who appreciate the political, who go beyond the Times, who鈥檝e read Food Matters, who鈥檝e seen me speak. And there鈥檚 a bunch of people who watch me on the Today show, or who saw me travel in Spain with Mario [Batali] and Gwyneth [Paltrow] 鈥擨 run into those people all the time. So I don鈥檛 know. I can tell you that I get stopped on the street, and I get stopped by all kinds of people: by doormen, by professionals, by people in the subway, by people on Central Park West. It doesn鈥檛 seem that I can鈥檛 say that I have a bigger following among women than men; it鈥檚 not clear which way that goes.

But when you sit down to write, whom do you think about? Whom do you try to reach?

I only cook one way; it鈥檚 really simple. Occasionally I go cook with a chef and I replicate their stuff, but for the most part, I鈥檓 really not coming up with that much that鈥檚 new. I鈥檓 coming up with new ways to show it and new ways to teach it and new ways to talk about it. Actually, I will take that back. The Food MattersCookbook was a departure.

What about for your op-ed pieces, rather than the recipes?

More and more, I鈥檓 moving in the direction of doing recipes with less meat, recipes with no meat, exploring vegetarian and vegan traditions. The op-ed column, that鈥檚 straight from the heart; that鈥檚 what I want to say. I see it as an advocacy position and I see it as a call to action. It鈥檚 not just describing a problem; I try to say what needs to be done about it. It all is geared to that thing that I just said, of discouraging the consumption of bad food鈥攖here鈥檚 a lot to write about that鈥攁nd encouraging the consumption of good food鈥攖here鈥檚 a lot to write about that. So it all stems from that tree, if you will. If you think about food, and then you think 鈥榖ad/good鈥 and all the little branches that grow off each of those sides, that鈥檚 my work. And cooking and recipes is still a huge part of that.

In terms of discouraging and encouraging behaviors, is it a personal responsibility? Is it a policy issue? Is it a matter of corporate responsibility?

There are two ways of describing the problem and there are two ways of fixing the problem. One way of fixing the problem is you fix it yourself. And we鈥檙e lucky in food because you can go change your diet. But on the other hand, changing your diet doesn鈥檛 affect too many other things. It affects you in a very positive way, and certainly if 50 million people became semi-vegans or flexitarians or less-meatarians or vegan-before-sixers, or whatever you want to call them, that would change things, but to change policies is generally a different story.

And how do you do that? It either has to happen because so many people do individual actions that it鈥檚 a de facto change, which I don鈥檛 think is going to happen, but as much impact as that has is important impact. At the same time you get a decent Congress elected and you make some changes that way, and you try to make it unprofitable for big food companies to sell bad food, to make it unprofitable, for example, for McDonald鈥檚 to use industrially-raised beef.

How do you do that? Do you boycott? Do a public relations campaign? If you make it so that CAFOs are more heavily regulated, you make it more difficult to sell bad food cheap, and if you can鈥檛 sell bad food cheap, people are going to say, 鈥榊ou know, I knew it wasn鈥檛 good for me, but it was so cheap, it was irresistible.鈥 Now if it鈥檚 not cheap, if that 99 cent or $1.49 or whatever it is cheeseburger costs $4.50, and you get some falafel next door that鈥檚 halfway decent for the same price, you might think twice.

The ingredients in falafel may not necessarily come from better sources.

Okay, chopped salad. How鈥檚 that?

Well, you could argue that there are issues with so many food groups.

Yes, but I think that鈥檚 the wrong way to look at it, because the issue is not the source of the vegetable versus the source of the meat; the issue is the vegetable versus the meat. So I would say that if the choice were between a non-organic salad and an organic cheeseburger, you鈥檙e better off with the salad. And I think that that鈥檚 important to remember, but that鈥檚 rarely where the choice is. The choice is really not between a good hamburger and a bad hamburger; the choice is between a hamburger and a stir-fried vegetable dish, something like that.

What types of meats do you eat after six, and do you always 鈥 in restaurants, for example 鈥 ask where they got it from? Meaning, is there any hypocrisy in these choices?

I鈥檓 not saying I鈥檓 perfect and I鈥檓 not saying that what I do is ideal. I鈥檓 saying that what for me has worked has been to be vegan before six. For other people, what鈥檚 important is that you move your diet towards a more plant-heavy diet. If that can be local, great; if that can be organic, fine.

But the most important thing is to go more plant-heavy, and I鈥檝e done that. Do I tend to eat sustainable seafood and meat that鈥檚 raised by real farmers? Yes, 80-90 percent of the time. Do I make a fetish of it? No. The thing is to choose your restaurants. So if you鈥檙e going to go into McDonald鈥檚, you鈥檙e going to eat bad food. If you鈥檙e going to go into鈥擨 don鈥檛 want to plug anybody鈥攂ut if you鈥檙e going to go into a restaurant in New York where you know that they鈥檙e doing good stuff, you鈥檙e going to eat good food.

But I don鈥檛 sit around and say, 鈥榃here鈥檚 this chicken from?鈥 When I cook by myself, the stuff that鈥檚 in my freezer or the stuff that I buy in the store, I generally know where it鈥檚 from. But when you鈥檙e eating out, putting yourself in someone else鈥檚 hands? All bets are off.

Click here for Part I of our interview with Mark Bittman.

Click here for Part II. 

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