The Tipping Point
Wage Spikes, Menu Prices and the New Restaurant Economy
鈥,鈥 reads the New York Times headline. I experienced this seismic change firsthand on a trip to St. Louis. My son and I stopped for an impromptu lunch at a very modest neighborhood caf茅 (see: worn upholstery, paper menus and general shabby charm). Only two other tables were occupied during prime lunch service, and one look at the extravagant menu prices had me wondering if we were in for a taste of highway robbery.
I ran down my typical checklist. Was the restaurant an alum of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives? Was it a farm-to-table, locally sourced, organic, natural, gluten-free, green, Slow Foods-endorsed, celebrity chef-fueled find? Nope. None of the above.
Discomfort swelled inside me like a cheese souffl茅 rising in a too-small cup. Finally, I saw a small note between the burger of the day and the Caesar salad stating, 鈥all prices include basic gratuity.鈥 Even with this knowledge in hand, my son鈥攁 generous tipper, but business minded鈥攕truggled to digest the high prices. I tried to explain that we would likely pay the same in the end, but then, I couldn鈥檛 quite be sure.
My consultant mind started poking holes in that argument: Was this just another crafty restaurant gimmick? Who would benefit from the extra money? What do the words 鈥渂asic gratuity鈥 even mean? Am I still supposed to leave a few dollars extra on top of the charge, or am I cheap if I don鈥檛? And finally, what if I hadn鈥檛 seen the discreet menu note about tip included and left my usual 20%?
Suddenly, a simple meal had turned into a complex puzzle. Is this the dawn of a new restaurant reality? It鈥檚 not a simple answer. With new laws promoting wage hikes鈥攗ltimately up to $15.00/hr. or more鈥攔estaurants are shouldering an incredible spike in operation costs.
At the same time, states are doing away with the tip credit. That鈥檚 the loophole in the minimum wage system that permits tipped employees to receive hourly pay that is only a small percentage of the minimum wage because the balance is made up by tip income.
Put simply, these two reforms mean that waitstaff will be paid a straight hourly rate based on the new minimum wage. Sure, this protects workers from the occasional slow shift, but it may ultimately result in lower overall income. Eliminating tips and instituting a flat hourly pay rate also marks the end of the historic wage gap between lower paid kitchen workers and higher paid waitstaff.
Just thinking about this, I鈥檓 already sweating. Will the strategy to eliminate tipping work? At present, Seattle has been the most visible test case for these new initiatives. For several months now, restaurant operators have tried different strategies鈥攊ncreasing menu prices, eliminating tipping, including a compulsory labor or service charge in the bill. Some have even tried adding an administrative fee.
Clearly there is no one solution. In the end, it鈥檚 customers who will be footing the bill. What鈥檚 more, these reforms will trickle down and affect every business that utilizes low-cost labor, from retail to health care and beyond. So how are things going in Seattle? Well, it鈥檚 still early, and the full $15 wage is yet to come. Many operators are waiting to make changes until they see how others fare.
But some marginally successful restaurants have already tanked. Labor costs that were 30鈥33% of sales are now more than 40%, devouring most or all the profit. To cope, some owners are considering shorter hours or reducing staff. A few plan to mechanize and cut jobs. As for the guests, some refuse to pay the additional charges. Remember, perception in the restaurant business is huge.
If something looks expensive to a diner, it is expensive. No thoughtfully worded explanation can overcome the emotion of high cost. Even I鈥攁n educated industry expert鈥攕uccumbed to shock and confusion at that caf茅 in St. Louis. Some more successful and well-run restaurants are making it work, largely because they absorb part of the increased costs while guests pick up the rest via new menu prices.
In the long term, I鈥檓 curious to see if those who benefit from higher wages will actually take more money home. They may just see those wages eaten up by the higher prices of the very products they produce鈥攁nd those they buy themselves. For when they go out to eat, they too will spend more.
As the old saying goes鈥攁 rising tide lifts all boats. Personally, I鈥檓 also curious to see if the owners of those boats end up with enough money to gas up and go for a joy ride. For now, the jury鈥檚 out, but I鈥檒l be keeping a watchful eye on the situation. The buying power of a $15.00 minimum wage population may help the overall economy, and it would be terrific if everyone made a living wage.
Widespread reform is no substitute for opportunity, ambition and growth. Maybe this is just a transitional phase. Maybe consumers like my son and I will get used to the sticker shock鈥攖hat is, until the next government initiative turns the industry upside down.
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