Bread That鈥檚 Worth the Wait
Master the Science and Craft of Artisanal Bread With Chef Sim Cass
Anything worth having is worth waiting for, and that鈥檚 especially true with bread. 鈥Bread baking, especially when using wild yeast, is a faith-based enterprise,鈥 says Chef Sim Cass, dean of bread baking at the Institute of 国产福利 Education (ICE). 鈥淵ou need to believe that the bread will rise. Then you have to have the patience required to get your perfect loaf.鈥
A patient mindset is just one thing students will learn during Chef Sim鈥檚 200-hour Techniques of Artisan Bread Baking course at ICE. As the founding baker of Balthazar Bakery, London-born Chef Sim helped introduce New Yorkers to naturally fermented, European-style breads, earning him the nickname 鈥渢he Prince of Darkness鈥 for his deeply toasted, crusty loaves.
鈥The holy grail of bread baking is to make bread with natural yeast,鈥 says Chef Sim. 鈥淭his dates back thousands and thousands of years. It鈥檚 basically using natural yeast that we get out of the air and growing a starter or a natural ferment to make our bread. That鈥檚 the base when you make sourdoughs and your nice rye breads.
About half of the breads at Balthazar and Bread Ahead in London [where Chef Sim recently worked] are made with natural ferments. It's the oldest way, but it is now the way of the best bakeries in the world. We're all baking with natural ferment.鈥 Working with natural yeast, however, makes some aspiring bakers nervous.
鈥淧eople are very intimidated by bread for some reason,鈥 says Cass. 鈥淭hey tend to overthink it. It is difficult because it's a series of methods to obtain one end product. It鈥檚 not like cooking. You have to make it over several days. It's a series of small actions that end up having a good result.鈥
During his career working in restaurants and bakeries around the world, Chef Sim has come to realize that the relationship between bread and people is really the same everywhere. The only difference is the flour. 鈥淒ifferent places have a hard time getting certain flours, so that's all that changes,鈥 says Chef Sim. 鈥淚f you work with bakers in Japan or bakers in Australia or bakers anywhere, they鈥檙e all of the same head, which is cool.鈥
The mistakes people make are also universal. 鈥淭he most common mistake that I see is people tend to make bread too warm,鈥 says Chef Sim. 鈥淯se cold water. You need to keep the temperature of the dough cool because then it is much more manageable and the bread takes longer to make. More time equals more flavor. I鈥檇 say the other big one is you need to develop gluten. The dough must have structure. You really must knead the dough until you have good gluten development.鈥
Chef Sim鈥檚 favorite bread of all time is still Balthazar鈥檚 signature Pain de Seigle. He also loves a good levain. 鈥淚 like things very simple,鈥 says Chef Sim. 鈥淚 would be very happy if you gave me a fantastic baguette with some salted butter and ham and cheese or just butter and jam. As time goes by, you find that you want less and less.鈥
One lesson that Chef Sim has learned from baking bread is 鈥測ou get a chance to rewrite history every day.鈥 His aim with Techniques of Artisan Bread Baking is to equip students with a broad set of skills, such as shaping (through repetition), understanding proof times, working with dodgy ovens and more, so they can make the right decisions at the right time and maybe even form their own philosophies. Above all Chef Sim wants to teach student the value of being patient. 鈥淒on't rush,鈥 says Cass. 鈥淚t's the rushing that messes everybody up.鈥
Want to learn bread baking with Chef Sim? Click here for more information on ICE鈥檚 Techniques of Artisan Bread Baking program.
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