Flying the Coop: Pastry Student Pablo Moreno Finds Fresh Perspective at ICE

Photo by Brady Corps on Unsplash

Why would one of the successors to an empire of bread and pastries in Spain travel all the way to New York City to study pastry arts? That鈥檚 the question that many have posed to Pablo Moreno (Pastry Arts 鈥17), grandson of the founders of , a household name for bread and pastries in Madrid, and pastry student at ICE.

We sat down with Pablo to get the answer to this question, and to chat about topics like the most useful thing he鈥檚 learned at ICE, his advice for prospective culinary students and whether he鈥檚 a fan of New York鈥檚 holy pastry 鈥 the bagel.

Pastry student Pablo Moreno

When did you realize that you wanted to study pastry arts?

I always thought that I wanted to go into the family business, but more on the human resources side, like my father. After studying business, I realized that in the pastry business, you need to know more than just the business side. You have to understand the product, including how to change the product. Without that, I would never be able to get a top position in the business.

With all of the culinary schools in Spain and Europe, why did you choose to come to New York to ICE?

That鈥檚 the question that everyone is asking me. All of my family has studied in Switzerland and France. That school of cooking and pastry didn鈥檛 sound so attractive to me because it鈥檚 what I鈥檝e seen all my life. All French schools are more or less the same.

Here, you can study French basics, but with different ideas 鈥 with the American aesthetic. I also wanted to get to know New York because of the economy. There鈥檚 so much business here. Plus, all of the trends begin in New York. When I saw the story of Dominique Ansel, for example, I was inspired to come to New York.

Speaking of New York pastries, have you tried a bagel?

Yes, I have (laughs). I'm not a fan of bagels. For me, the bad thing about bagels is that they鈥檙e so dense. I don鈥檛 know why but I have the idea that dense pastries are bad quality 鈥 because the fermentation wasn鈥檛 good.

Which pastry and baking traditions have you learned at ICE?

I鈥檝e learned about American pastries 鈥 bagels, donuts, pretzels. I鈥檓 also learning the French school with an American taste. For example, things in the U.S. are very light-colored. When I bake something, I want it very dark.

Have you done lessons with Chef Sim Cass, the 鈥Prince of Darkness,鈥 yet?

I鈥檓 taking classes with him now and I really love it. For me, it鈥檚 been the best thing since I鈥檝e been at ICE.

What is the most useful thing you鈥檝e learned during your time at ICE?

One thing is the knowledge of American tastes. I don鈥檛 quite have it yet, but I think after my externship I鈥檒l understand how to run a business here. In the future, if I could have one or more bakeries here in New York, I鈥檇 love that. Another thing is learning about how to make products from start to finish.

Working for my family business, I鈥檝e seen the products developed but I鈥檝e never seen the basics. I needed to understand the simple aspects of making bread 鈥 water, salt, flour and yeast. Afterwards I鈥檒l be able to understand more complicated products.

I think that鈥檚 how you get to the level of someone like Sim 鈥 who touches a piece of dough and knows how it was made.

My uncle is exactly the same. My uncle is the judge for the competition of the best croissants in Spain. He can look at a table of croissants and see which is the best. I need to get to that level.

What has been your favorite lesson so far?

I don鈥檛 like sugar at all, but I love the lessons about sugar 鈥 understanding how to cook sugar and the different colors and temperatures. The lessons made me understand something that I would never understand otherwise because I don鈥檛 like sweets. But my favorite classes have been the ones with Sim, especially when we made Italian breads. I also enjoyed the trip to Dominique Ansel.

If you could travel anywhere in the world to sample pastries, where would you go and why?

Two countries. First, I鈥檇 go to France. I鈥檝e been in France but without the knowledge of how to appreciate the pastries. I really prefer Italian baking though 鈥 the olive oil culture is the best flavor in the world. I love how they make breads like ciabatta and focaccia. They鈥檙e hollow inside but have a strong flavor. I wouldn鈥檛 go to the typical places like Rome or Florence. I would go to Sicily and see how they make bread there. One pastry I love is panettone.

What advice would you give someone considering going to culinary school?

Some people look for the fanciest school and, to me, that approach is wrong. People want to make the best-plated dessert and I think you鈥檙e not going to learn that in school. The things you should learn in school are the basic skills 鈥 knife skills, fermentation, sugar cooking 鈥 basic things that you will build on when you get a job.

The good thing about ICE is that they start with the basics. You need to learn the fundamentals because afterwards that鈥檚 what defines you from your colleagues who haven鈥檛 gone to culinary school. They may be much faster than you, but they don鈥檛 have the knowledge of why something should be made a certain way. You can be in control of changing a recipe, while the other person only knows how to make it.

Ready to launch your career in pastry arts? Click here for more information on ICE鈥檚 career programs.

Caitlin was ICE's content manager from 2016 to 2018 before moving to Spain and opening a pop-up artisanal sandwich shop. Today, she is a food and lifestyle writer and editor in Paris.