Hello, my name is Jenny. I am a former executive pastry chef turned pastry chef instructor. Some might say I鈥檓 still in recovery. I began my career in Chicago, working my way up through the kitchens of Gordon鈥檚, Blackbird and Charlie Trotter鈥檚鈥攖rue icons in the city鈥檚 culinary history. My time in these restaurants鈥攍ike many culinary school graduates鈥攚as my first real introduction to restaurant slang all day and the 鈥測es, chef鈥 culture of kitchens.
The 鈥測es, chef鈥 mentality stems from chefs who worked their way up in grueling environments, once called kitchen brigades. These environments were built for efficiency and excellence: a clear hierarchy, where everyone knew their place. The culture of these kitchens tended towards a sort of masochistic martyrdom where the longer you worked, the better chef you were. Chefs at the best restaurants were expected to put work before everything in their personal lives鈥攊ncluding sickness and even sanity鈥攖o maintain the restaurant鈥檚 prestige.
Now it may sound tough to come of age in this kitchen culture, but it wasn鈥檛 so bad. I would liken the 鈥測es, chef鈥 culture to a full-immersion language program: it鈥檚 only when communication is a question of survival that we become fluent. Being the new kid at a restaurant full of experienced cooks forced me to be a quick study, and within a couple of years鈥 time, I became a pretty good cook myself. I was motivated to move up from the bottom of the totem pole, and a large part of my success was learning to live the 鈥測es, chef鈥 ethos.
How does this culture play out minute to minute? In short, 鈥測es, chef鈥 is the reply for every command you are given in a kitchen. It doesn鈥檛 matter how you think things need to be done. If you had a question, the time to ask was before your shift, because now there鈥檚 a lady at table seven who is waiting on a perfectly medium rare steak. In truth, for the complex choreography of a restaurant kitchen to operate without a hitch, you need a dictator. Chef means chief in French, and in the kitchen, the chef is the boss鈥攑eriod.
A typical conversation in the kitchen:
Chef: 鈥淵ou should use your serrated knife to chop bars of chocolate.鈥
You: 鈥淵es, chef.鈥 (Translation: 鈥淭hanks for the helpful tip.鈥)
Chef: 鈥淪eparate 200 eggs and make sure you don鈥檛 get any yolk in the whites.鈥
You: 鈥淵es, chef.鈥 (Translation: 鈥淚鈥檝e made this before, I know not to get the yolk in the whites.鈥)
Chef: 鈥淲hy did you add the butter to the dough now? I told you to add it last.鈥
You: 鈥淵es, chef.鈥 (Translation: 鈥淵esterday you told me to add the butter first, so now I'm totally confused.鈥)
Chef: 鈥淪top feeding the sourdough starter. I did it already.鈥
You: 鈥淵es, chef.鈥 (Translation: 鈥淎ctually chef, you started to feed it then got a call and walked away. So I thought I鈥檇 feed it because you forgot.鈥)
That is鈥ntil recently. Today, we鈥檙e witnessing a rapid cultural shift in professional kitchens. Entry-level cooks are demanding better hours and pay. 国产福利 students are graduating with kitchen andfood business skills. Cooks are no longer interested in being just another pair of hands. They not only want to voice their opinions, but they also insist they be heard.
As a former executive pastry chef, I鈥檓 not sure what to make of this shift. In the industry, many of us are asking: 鈥淲hy can鈥檛 we find any decent cooks? Why won鈥檛 these cooks just be quiet and do the work? Why don鈥檛 they understand how amazing this restaurant is? Don鈥檛 they get it? I spent 10 years slaving away to get where I am. I learned from the best of the best, and all my experience is what makes me the pastry chef I am today. It came at the price of time and dedication, no matter what the sacrifices may have been. Aren鈥檛 they listening?鈥
In large part, the growing popularity of culinary school is part of this change. Over the last two decades, the cooks entering the field have been increasingly educated and eager to express their own creativity. So are we witnessing a planned rebellion of entry-level cooks against executive chefs that were raised in the 鈥測es, chef鈥 kitchen culture? Not exactly.
The majority of cooks currently entering the industry were born between 1980-1995, making them part of the millennial generation. They have extraordinary technical skills and multitask like machines鈥攚alking, talking, listening and texting simultaneously. They are not accustomed to the old school, 鈥減ut your head down鈥 way of working. They are focused on themselves first. And you know what? We can learn something from them. In the classrooms at ICE, I certainly have. It鈥檚 been a challenging but meaningful endeavor. I鈥檝e learned to listen more and command a bit less.
When I started out in kitchens, I remember I didn鈥檛 like being underpaid. I didn鈥檛 enjoy being told my thoughts and opinions didn鈥檛 matter. I didn鈥檛 want to work 12+ hours a day. But I did it because I felt like I didn鈥檛 have a choice, and I loved the work so much that I was willing to make sacrifices. So when the current generation says they won鈥檛 accept being underpaid, working long hours and feeling underappreciated every day, I get it. That 鈥渕e first鈥 mentality has its perks, but something has got to give. So who has to change? The employees or the employers?
My take on this culture divide is that the people who benefit most from changing are the chefs. Now, I鈥檓 not suggesting that chefs let their cooks run willy-nilly or let them talk back during dinner service. But I am suggesting that we all let go of the 鈥測es, chef鈥 culture. The best kitchens have always been a team effort, and it鈥檚 high time they became more collaborative鈥攁nd that includes encouraging the creativity of every cook, even the one who just started last week.
No matter what you鈥檙e trying to accomplish鈥攚hether preparing a perfectly timed nine-course tasting menu or looking for a set of lost keys鈥攖here鈥檚 nothing like a fresh set of eyes on a situation. So if we let the before-service conversation evolve to include, 鈥渉ave you considered this, chef?鈥 we all reap the benefits. In short, can we chefs stop thinking of ourselves as dictators and instead become coaches? From food trucks to tipping to composting, the industry is already changing in ways beyond our control. It鈥檚 time that chefs give cooks a moment to look up from their cutting boards and a chance to cut their teeth in a kitchen that welcomes open conversation.
Click here to learn more about the culture of restaurant kitchens. Then visit ICE.edu for free information about launching your culinary career.