Meet Richard Vayda
ICE鈥檚 Resident Sommelier Wants You to Have Fun with Wine
What鈥檚 the number one rule of drinking wine? There are no rules. That鈥檚 the ethos of ICE鈥檚 Director of Wine and Beverage Studies, Richard Vayda. The experienced sommelier and former chef (who was also an opera singer once upon a time) appreciates wine in all of its varieties and for all occasions.
Just as there鈥檚 a time and place for a grand cru from Bordeaux, there鈥檚 also a moment to enjoy a crisp white zinfandel (preferably with potato chips, on the beach). As he teaches students at ICE, the important thing is to keep an open mind and worry less 鈥 after all, wine is about enjoyment.
We caught up with Richard before one of his popular courses to chat with us for an ICE blog interview.
How did you become interested in wine?
I鈥檓 from the Midwest 鈥 Chicago, originally 鈥 and my grandparents owned a beer and wine warehouse. Alcohol was always around us. When I turned 15, I got really interested in food and wine, so I started making wine in my bedroom.
There was no internet then so I had to do everything by books and magazines. I would buy grape concentrate from California 鈥 chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon 鈥 and I made wine in vats in my bedroom. I didn鈥檛 tell my parents right away, but they of course figured out from the smell. Eventually I got to the point where I made sparkling wine.
In your bedroom!?
In my bedroom and the basement 鈥 you have to use this process where you almost freeze the wine. I would do a second fermentation in the bottle. Today, I probably would not think that sparkling wine was very good, but at that particular time I thought Wow, it鈥檚 cool that you can do this. I was really interested in wine and food and then I got into the music industry 鈥 I was an opera singer for a while.
Still, I was always interested in food so eventually I went back to it. I finished my master鈥檚 at NYU 鈥 I studied food management and did a lot of nutrition work as part of my program. Then I decided to open a restaurant in the Catskills 鈥 Mountain Brook Dining and Spirits. It was a beautiful setting, with soaring mountains and the Schoharie Creek next door.
When I moved back to New York City, I ran a small Proven莽al restaurant. I was very involved with the wine program. Eventually I opened a coffee and chocolate lounge, Caffeine, in South Norwalk, Connecticut. My partners and I owned that for about six years.
To be a wine expert, is it necessary to have special tasting abilities?
I think most people can develop their sense of smell and sense of taste quite a bit. It鈥檚 mostly about the sense of smell. Most people can identify a thousand-plus smells. The problem is trying to verbalize what they鈥檙e smelling. With practice, you can become more precise.
There are people who are naturally better tasters or smellers 鈥 the 鈥渟uper tasters鈥 鈥 but I think anyone can develop those skills. Tonight I鈥檓 teaching the second session of an intro class, and I already saw on the first day how happy some of them were when they picked up things they didn鈥檛 know they could. Students start picking up on the nuances in wine pretty quickly.
Is that one of the fun parts of teaching 鈥 when you get to give people the tools to taste wine?
Absolutely. It鈥檚 a two-way process, too. Sometimes they give me the words. All of us have physiological differences in the way we taste things or smell things. You might be more sensitive to something that I don鈥檛 pick up on strongly, so the student鈥檚 words help me, too. I often find that the students come up with the word before I do 鈥 it may be the wackiest word, but it may be perfect.
You also studied in Paris 鈥 were you studying food or wine?
I spent one year at the Sorbonne, studying linguistics.
And living in Paris!
Yes, and living in Paris, eating and drinking great food and wine. I couldn鈥檛 afford expensive wines then. I remember going with my classmates to the supermarch茅, and we鈥檇 bring our own bottle and fill it up with wine for one euro. We had some lovely meals though.
Did you get a sense of French wine culture, and is it different from wine culture in the United States?
I think the French approach, when I was living there, was similar to the American approach today. Ten years ago in the U.S., people approached wine in a pretentious way and I鈥檓 all about getting rid of that. Wine should be fun. French people were already like that 鈥 because it鈥檚 an everyday drink for the French. Now it鈥檚 becoming an everyday drink here, something that people don鈥檛 have to get too stressed out about. But still, in my classes, I often get people who say I want to be able to order wine at a restaurant and feel confident, not so self-conscious. I tell them, don鈥檛 worry about it!
I think some Americans still feel silly if they are taking wine seriously. For example, if they have to swill a glass after ordering a bottle of wine.
Or they think, is this what I鈥檓 supposed to do? I say, do whatever you like. Just enjoy.
How has wine culture in the United States changed in the past decade?
People are becoming less pretentious about wine and are embracing wine as an everyday beverage. It鈥檚 changed a bit by removing stereotypes around wine, but some stereotypes still linger. I still get people who won鈥檛 drink ros茅 鈥 a lot of them associate it with white zinfandel. In the course, I purposely put a French Proven莽al ros茅 next to an American white zinfandel, just to see what people will say about it and almost every class thinks that the white zinfandel matches better with a brie cheese than the French ros茅.
Does white zinfandel deserve its bad reputation? Are there good ones?
Yes, there are. I selected one for my class that鈥檚 on the drier side and also very rich in flavor. There are still some thin, sweet, thin white zinfandels that are the wine equivalent of soda. But even those wines with some potato chips on the beach are not the worst thing (laughs). It鈥檚 low in alcohol and that sweet offsets the saltiness.
If you wanted to impress someone with a gift of a bottle of wine, what would you recommend?
It should be a gift from you that says something about you, but you also want them to appreciate it. I have a British friend and he thinks all American wines are awful 鈥 he calls them 鈥渢oo sweet.鈥 When I buy him a gift, I sometimes buy an American wine, but I purposefully look for something that he likes 鈥 full body, but with finesse, not overly ripe fruit. Probably not a California wine, but maybe something interesting from Washington 鈥 like a Bordeaux blend.
Otherwise, sparkling wines, especially 鈥渟urprise鈥 sparkling wines are always good. I鈥檝e been gifting people sparkling wines from New Mexico and it is kind of fun. People say New Mexico? This is pretty good! I also have friends who like big, fruity wines, so I鈥檒l give them something big and fruity, but not clumsy 鈥 like a nice shiraz from Australia. I recommend matching the wine with the person, but including an element of surprise.
That鈥檚 what I like to do with my classes at ICE. I present the typical example of a wine, then I present something atypical. When I do the American wines in our course, I鈥檒l show them the American wines that are well made and representative and then I鈥檒l throw in a fruit bomb.
Ready to discover the world of wine with Richard? Click here to check out the upcoming wine courses at ICE.
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