The Next Big Bite

What is the Future of Food?
Chefs James and Michael with IBM Watson

鈥淭he future of food is cooking 鈥 is all of us cooking,鈥 said Melissa Clark on Monday night to a roomful of guests ranging from food industry pros to zealous foodies at the Institute of 国产福利 Education. The occasion was the third annual 鈥淭he Next Big Bite鈥 event presented by Les Dames d鈥橢scoffier, and the question on everyone鈥檚 mind: what is the future of food?

The prolific New York Times food writer was joined by fellow panelists Padma Lakshmi of Bravo鈥檚 Top Chef, Kerry Heffernan, executive chef of Grand Banks; Susan Ungaro, president of the James Beard Foundation; Missy Robbins, ICE graduate and chef-owner of Lilia, and Pascaline Lepeltier, Master Sommelier, all moderated by Dana Cowin, chief creative officer of Chefs Club and former editor-in-chief of Food & Wine. Heads nodded and occasional waves of laughter rippled through the crowd as the panelists explored the future of food.

The Next Big Bite

So what was the consensus? For starters, food and how we eat are getting more expansive. On a global level, food is becoming 鈥減ost-ethnic,鈥 in the words of Lakshmi, who noted the way that culinary trends mirror global migration and the convergence of cultures. Also expanding is the concept of food, and in particular, what is considered good food.

Chefs, for example, are using wider nets to choose fish to serve in their restaurants. Heffernan explained how unfortunate nomenclature keeps certain, readily available fish 鈥 like dogfish 鈥 from gaining the popularity that their flavor merits, and the brilliant marketing tool that chefs sometimes use to get unjustly maligned seafood back on menus: just change the name.

As for cooking approaches, prepare yourself for 鈥渟tem-to-stalk鈥 cookery, the veggie counterpart of nose-to-tail, with a focus on using vegetables in their entirety, simultaneously reducing food waste and making vegetables the star of the show (or plate). But Missy Robbins reminded the audience that balance is key, and that focusing on vegetables doesn鈥檛 mean rejecting meat.

On a more rudimentary level, Clark rallied in favor of (confidently) making anything for dinner 鈥 be it eggs or a bowl of oatmeal 鈥 as long as it鈥檚 delicious and what you鈥檙e craving. Taste trumps tradition; cooking need not be complicated.

The Next Big Bite
ICE President Rick Smilow, Padma Lakshmi and Missy Robbins

So how can people feel more comfortable in the kitchen?

Lakshmi suggested starting early: get cooking back into schools. Lakshmi noted that the disappearance of programs like Home Economics has created a generation that doesn鈥檛 know their way around the kitchen. School lunches, too, were on the menu on Monday evening, or rather, how to fix them.

鈥淰ote,鈥 stressed Heffernan, who championed more political activism in the food community to bring about changes like healthier lunches for children and better food regulations. When it comes to dining out, Robbins鈥 new restaurant Lilia in Brooklyn exemplifies the rise of fine casual dining 鈥 creative, bold flavors served in an informal, casual environment.

We鈥檙e seeing 鈥淸t]he casualization of great food, truly great food,鈥 Cowin observed. Eateries are swapping white tablecloths for reclaimed wood and trading the velvet rope for cozy neighborhood vibes, a sentiment captured by Robbins, who shared, 鈥淚 always wanted to create the restaurant that I wanted to go to every night, like it was home.鈥 Judging by the nightly crowds at Lilia, there is no doubt it鈥檚 a place that many would like to call home 鈥 or at least eat there every night.

At 鈥淭he Next Big Bite,鈥 the panel went beyond the flavors to be expected on menus and Instagram feeds, and offered practical ideas for effecting social change. When it comes to the future of food, the collective mindset is moving toward being healthier, more global and more conscious of the impact of food on communities.

And cooking more is the key: cook more, cook what makes you feel good, and when you鈥檙e not cooking, enjoy the growing number of eateries that are on a mission to serve delicious food with no pretense. If and when you do see dogfish or porgy on the menu, don鈥檛 be put off: give them a try, too.

For more from the evening鈥檚 discussion, follow the hashtag #NextBigBite2017 on Twitter.Feeling culinarily inspired? Learn more about ICE鈥檚 career training programs.

Caitlin was ICE's content manager from 2016 to 2018 before moving to Spain and opening a pop-up artisanal sandwich shop. Today, she is a food and lifestyle writer and editor in Paris.