Adrienne Cheatham is Serving Up Her Sunday Best
Chef Adrienne talks about her past and future in the hospitality industry
Chef Adrienne Cheatham is no stranger to the hospitality industry.
The daughter of a Black man and a white woman, Chef Adrienne grew up in Chicago鈥檚 Hyde Park, a culturally diverse neighborhood due south of the city center. Her mother worked front-of-house at local establishments; she could often be found there running food or bussing tables.
Though she had the hospitality itch to scratch, her father urged her to enroll in traditional college as opposed to culinary school.
"He told me he fought too hard for civil rights for his kids to end up in a kitchen," she recalls.
And so she studied business and journalism, before ultimately coming to New York, a culinary capital of the world, to enroll at ICE.
From there, she went on to three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin (where she spent eight years, ultimately becoming Executive Sous Chef) and then Marcus Samuelsson鈥檚 lauded Red Rooster Harlem (helming the kitchen as Executive Chef, natch).
Now working as a private chef, Chef Adrienne also hosts a series of pop-ups which ultimately became the inspiration for her cookbook,
Last weekend, in celebration of Black History Month, Les Dames D鈥橢scoffier鈥檚 New York chapter hosted Chef Adrienne for a panel discussion on campus here at ICE. From her roots and her love affair with Southern fare to her time at ICE and advice to budding cooks, Chef Adrienne proves that, when it comes to your passion 鈥 whatever it may be 鈥 the sky鈥檚 the limit.
On Southern Cuisine
Between her father growing up in Jackson, Mississippi, going to college in North Florida (go Rattlers!) and her husband hailing from New Orleans, when it comes to Southern foods, Chef Adrienne has covered a lot of ground. It's her culinary ethos, her culinary voice.
鈥淓ven Alice Waters will talk about how Southern cuisine is the only true American cuisine,鈥 she says. 鈥淗ow that is where American cuisine started, because it's such a melting pot country. You have slaves who are [here] from West Africa, you have immigrants from China who are working to build a railroad system鈥very culture that came to the U.S. from indigenous working with enslaved Africans, to learn how to plant on this new soil, all the way up through the 70s, [there are] Vietnamese immigrants fleeing war, everybody has contributed something to what we know as Southern cuisine. And all of those are reflected in so many dishes.鈥
Read More about Chef Adrienne:
On Being a Minority in a Michelin-Starred Kitchen
It鈥檚 no doubt that times are (finally) changing from the kitchen brigades that were predominantly white males to ones that are much more diverse. Even so, Chef Adrienne recalls there being many firsts at Le Bernardin 鈥 and that wasn鈥檛 so long ago.
鈥淎s a minority in fine dining, they weren鈥檛 seeing people outside of bussers and dishwashers,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 was the fourth woman and the first Black person to get to the entr茅e line鈥s a sous chef, I was the second or third person.鈥
Milestones, indeed. Chef Adrienne says she was ultimately treated as 鈥渙ne of the guys.鈥
On 鈥淪unday Best鈥
When Chef Adrienne would visit her Great Aunt during her childhood in the summer months, she thought she could get away with wearing the same one church dress every Sunday. She was swiftly reminded to don her finest attire 鈥 her 鈥淪unday Best.鈥
鈥淢y Great Aunt [said] that putting on your Sunday best was a way of demanding respect from other people,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t shows them that you take yourself seriously鈥t became more important as I got older, and it was kind of just a way of respecting and putting your best foot forward鈥t鈥檚 intentional.鈥
She even hears her Harlem neighbors speak to it. And so a pop-up series was born, which laid the foundation for her first cookbook.
First debuted in April of 2022, 鈥淪unday Best鈥 is a culmination of dishes reflecting Chef Adrienne's Southern roots, her mother's German and Irish background as well as the classic and refined techniques she learned in professional kitchens. Dishes include Tater Tot Waffles with Candied Bacon, Cornbread Goug茅res, Cheerwine-Braised Oxtail and Mom's Stuffed Shells with Smoky Red Gravy.
鈥淚 wanted it to be more reflective of my entire effort,鈥 Chef Adrienne says.
Recipe from Chef Adrienne:
On Advice to the Future Generation
Chef Adrienne graduated from ICE鈥檚 国产福利 Arts program in 2007. She reflects on her glory days as a time of both intense days and hard nights, going to school during the day, bartending at night and staging at various restaurants on her day off.
Ultimately, the payout was worth it.
鈥淚t was tremendous because people come to ICE from all over 鈥 you never know who you鈥檙e going to be in class with,鈥 Chef Adrienne says. 鈥淓very relationship is validated. Those personal relationships that I built at ICE was my first networking opportunity.鈥
鈥淎ll the chef-instructors here have cooked all over and are so connected,鈥 she continues. 鈥淚CE has been so supportive throughout my entire career 鈥 it鈥檚 about maintaining that relationship.鈥
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