Leading the Sweet Side of La Sirena
ICE Alum Thea Habjanic
On a Tuesday evening in the midst of September Fashion Week in New York City, I meet Thea Habjanic (Pastry Arts '10) at , the buzzy new restaurant in the Meatpacking district of Manhattan where Thea leads the sweet side of the kitchen as executive pastry chef.
Given the restaurant's location and the unseasonably warm weather, it will no doubt be a long night for Thea. Still, she seems poised and unhurried as I have her stand for a handful of portraits in her kitchen attire. In a professional pastry kitchen, where technical skill is only half the battle, it takes a certain personality type鈥攐ne that can stay focused on the details through an onslaught of tickets, demands and the occasional snafu鈥攖o truly succeed.
Thea has the qualities to thrive in the restaurant world鈥攖hough that wasn鈥檛 always her career path. She graduated from NYU with a degree in journalism and worked for several years as an entertainment writer before deciding to enroll in the Pastry & Baking Arts program at ICE.
As her recent kitchen roles can attest, Thea has the demeanor and the work ethic suited to fast-paced restaurants. Said ICE Creative Director Michael Laiskonis, who hired Thea for her first pastry gig at , 鈥淟ast year, I signed on to create the pastry program for the newest Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich restaurant, La Sirena. When it came time to hire a pastry chef for the upscale and busy restaurant, I immediately thought of Thea. Her previous experience in both fine dining and high volume made for a perfect match. She has played a vital role in crafting La Sirena鈥檚 desserts, earning critical praise. She runs the hectic pastry kitchen with that positive, can-do attitude that initially impressed me!鈥
Thea was kind enough to pop out of the pastry kitchen and share with the ICE blog a glimpse into her daily life and her path to ICE.
ICE graduation year/program: Weekend Pastry & Baking Arts, 2010
Current Address: East Harlem, NYC
Occupation: Executive pastry chef at La Sirena
Describe a typical day in your life.
I start every day with an iced latte; whether it鈥檚 cold or hot outside, I need my iced latte. I don鈥檛 drink drip coffee鈥攊t has to be espresso with cold milk. I鈥檓 a big yogi and I do yoga six days a week, so that鈥檚 usually where I go before work. I typically go to work in the early afternoon.
I鈥檒l check in with the staff that have been doing production and see if they have any questions and if we have everything for the day. Then I鈥檒l talk to the executive chef and see what鈥檚 in store for the night鈥攊f we have any parties and how many covers. After that, I鈥檒l do some production and work on recipe development or specials for the day.
We have a pre-shift meeting where the whole FOH and BOH discuss protocol issues or specials for the day. From there, it鈥檚 pretty much service all night. We have more time to set up in pastry鈥攚e won鈥檛 normally get our first ticket until after 7:00 p.m., so we have time to get our stuff together.
You hear the kitchen come alive on the savory side around 5鈥5:30 p.m. and we catch up eventually. But then, of course, pastry is always the last in the restaurant because we finish much later. I run the line, plate, make sure everyone is sending out all the dishes correctly. I鈥檓 very hands-on鈥擨鈥檓 not the kind of chef who will leave early and let the cooks handle everything. I like to stay until the end. I still help clean and scrub.
How did ICE prepare you for being a pastry chef at La Sirena?
One of the first things I remember learning at ICE was something that my teacher Nicole Kaplan said: "Nothing about restaurant life is glamorous, so if you鈥檙e into a fantasy about this being a prissy job, then you鈥檙e going to be disappointed." She was 100% right. ICE was awesome.
I made great friends and learned so much. If you鈥檝e never worked in a restaurant before or in the culinary field, they give you a foundation for what the life is really like. Because I think people have no clue. It鈥檚 hard work, a lot of hustling and long days. It鈥檚 a bit of a masochistic job. But people who go to school and end up working in this field have a lot of drive and ambition. They love what they do.
How did you land your first externship at Le Bernardin?
I had been there once as a child鈥攎y parents had a wedding anniversary dinner there and I tagged along. When I was looking for externships, I didn鈥檛 know if I wanted to work in a bakery or a restaurant, and I thought of that dinner at Le Bernadin.
I looked up the pastry chef [Michael Laiskonis] and I found out that he was very well known and respected. At the time, I didn鈥檛 realize what a pastry celebrity he was. I wrote him an email, he responded and the rest is history. I went in for a trail and it went well. I think Michael saw something in me that he believed in. He鈥檚 been my mentor ever since.
Nothing about restaurant life is glamorous, so if you鈥檙e into a fantasy about this being a prissy job, then you鈥檙e going to be disappointed.
What inspired you to go to culinary school?
My dad was a chef. He owned a couple of restaurants on restaurant row on 46th street, so I grew up going there with my mom and I saw the business firsthand. He always encouraged me not to work in restaurants because it鈥檚 very hard. But we were always a big cooking family鈥攚e cooked dinner every night. Food around the table was always a big deal.
Initially, I didn鈥檛 think of it as a career. I went to NYU, got a journalism degree and did that for several years. But then a bunch of life changes happened and my ex-boyfriend was always encouraging me to go to pastry school since I used to bake all the time. Then I finally did it. I totally changed careers.
Thoughts on the current culinary landscape?
It鈥檚 so vast and broad. I think there鈥檚 something for everyone out there. But there鈥檚 not a lot out there that hasn鈥檛 been done before. People always ask me: what鈥檚 your favorite food to make or what鈥檚 your specialty? I think that鈥檚 a silly question because I don鈥檛 have a specialty. I love to make everything. I love to make things that taste good and are beautiful.
In pastry, you鈥檙e leaving the last impression on a diner in your restaurant. You want them to look at the plate and say 鈥渙h my gosh, that鈥檚 so pretty.鈥 But in the end, I want the plate to taste better than it looks.
Ready to jump-start your career in pastry arts? Learn more about ICE鈥檚 career programs.
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