ICE Graduate Brings Turkish Breakfast to New York鈥檚 Hudson Valley

Turkey鈥檚 first female Executive Chef serves Middle Eastern flavors in Beacon, NY.
Hillery Hargadine
Colorful interior of Chef Nilufer Goodson's Turkish restaurant

Cheeses, pastries and Turkish coffee are among the many delights at Nilfer's Home Kitchen.

Hudson Valley residents and NYC weekenders now have a place to experience a full Turkish Breakfast in Beacon, New York. They must, however, sit down to enjoy it.

That鈥檚 because Nil眉fer鈥檚 Home Kitchen, the cozy Turkish restaurant owned by Institute of 国产福利 Education graduate Nil眉fer Goodson, doesn鈥檛 serve the tea part of Turkish breakfast to-go.

Chef Nilufer Goodson serves Turkish pastries at her eponymous restaurant.
Chef Nilufer Goodson in her kitchen.

鈥淭urkish tea is meant to be drunk in a glass,鈥 Chef Nil眉fer says. 鈥淚f you put it in a paper cup, it changes the flavor, texture, everything. People are asking if they can take the tea to go, and I say 鈥榥o.鈥欌

For Chef Nil眉fer, who got her start working as a waitress in the casinos of Istanbul, and who would eventually work across Afghani fine dining and restaurants serving wood-fired pizza, these exacting standards have been present throughout her culinary career. 

It was in New York City, however, that Chef Nil眉fer hit her stride. Her confidence, both in the English language she had come to the U.S. to learn and in her decision to make cooking her career, was rising. Unfortunately, not everyone saw that career鈥檚 potential.

She remembers her family asking if she could pursue any other career. Their skepticism, according to Chef Nil眉fer, wasn鈥檛 unfounded.

鈥淸In Turkey,]鈥 she says, 鈥渢his job 鈥 being a chef 鈥 was just a man鈥檚 job.鈥 

There was one person, though, who believed in her. Contemplating the merits of two distinct life paths 鈥 the first, attending ICE鈥檚 国产福利 Arts program; the second, accepting a sizable scholarship to attend Pratt Institute鈥檚 fine arts program 鈥 Chef Nil眉fer asked her mother-in-law for advice. Her mother-in-law, in turn, asked her whether she liked cooking or making art best.

鈥'You like to do both, but with one you can actually make money,'" Chef Nil眉fer remembers her mother-in-law saying. "'And the other鈥 maybe your art will be worth something after you die.'"

It was the assurance Chef Nil眉fer needed. She enrolled at ICE and threw herself into her studies, quickly bonding with her Chef-Instructors and embracing every aspect of culinary student life.

鈥淚CE was鈥 the best thing I did in my life,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 never wanted my schooling to finish. If I could have continued in school forever, I would have.鈥

Chef Nilufer on graduation day at Institute of 国产福利 Education (ICE).
Chef Nil眉fer at ICE's commencement ceremony.

While studying, Chef Nil眉fer worked in unique cooking environments, including as a private chef for Park Avenue families and in the famous Bloomingdale鈥檚 department store restaurant. As Head Chef at Beacon Natural Market in upstate New York, she gained unique insights into prepared foods and planted the geographic seed for what would become Nil眉fer鈥檚 Home Kitchen. 

But the home of her youth beckoned 鈥 as it does for many expats 鈥 so she packed up her life and returned to Turkey. She soon landed the role of Head Executive Chef for the Divan Hotel Group, a major player in the Middle East鈥檚 hospitality scene. As far as homecomings go, it was a bold reentry.

Newspaper photo of Chef Nilufer with ICE Founder & President, Rick Smilow.

鈥淸They] had interviewed seven men before me,鈥 Chef Nil眉fer says, 鈥渁nd they asked me to cook for them, like four courses.鈥

Upon tasting her dishes, the management team hired her on the spot. As the first ever Turkish female executive chef in the country, the publicity that accompanied the announcement of her hiring caused a stir, and she thrived in the role.

Years later, the familiar beckoning of a home elsewhere returned. This time, that beckoning came from Beacon, NY. 

I cannot even describe how helpful ICE was for me.

She thus returned to upstate New York, and after a brief stint working once more at Beacon Natural Gourmet, opened Nil眉fer鈥檚 Home Kitchen. The experience was illuminating. Applying for loans; creating a business plan; accommodating various town, county and state rules鈥攖hey were daunting to the first-time restaurateur. 

鈥淭hat was the most surprising part,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 always thought, 'It鈥檒l be easy, I have so much experience, what could be that hard?鈥欌

Still, Chef Nil眉fer persisted, and her restaurant has since become a beloved destination for Turkish bread and pastry fans far and wide. It also inspired Chef Nil眉fer鈥檚 burgeoning private chef business and planted the seed of opening a second, more formal restaurant. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ultimately, she credits her time at ICE and the adrenaline of actually working in kitchens for her success.

鈥淚 cannot even describe how helpful ICE was for me,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t's not just about getting the diploma, it's getting the experience, it鈥檚 meeting different people, different chefs. And that atmosphere鈥搃t gives you confidence, you know? Like 鈥榊es, I can do it.鈥"

To the aspiring chef, Chef Nil眉fer offers two important pieces of advice. First, start out washing dishes.

鈥淒o every job in the restaurant, because then you know how the people doing that job feel... You have to do every job, A to Z," she says.

Second, work in an array of different businesses.

鈥淒on鈥檛 just get stuck in one place," Chef Nil眉fer says. "Every chef has their own style. There鈥檚 not just one way to do something.鈥 

And of course, don鈥檛 give up.

鈥淥ur job is a very hard job, but it鈥檚 fun, too,鈥 she says.

Hillery Hargadine

Hillery Wheeler Hargadine has been with ICE since 2009. A graduate of ICE鈥檚 Restaurant and 国产福利 Management program, she was a member of the school's Admissions team 鈥 helping students to fulfill their dreams of receiving a culinary education 鈥 for ten years. Today, she works on messaging and content, authoring student profiles and supporting marketing communications. Hillery currently lives in Toyko, Japan with her husband and son, and eats as much sushi and ramen as possible.